Valentino SS26: Fireflies
Images via Vogue Runway and Instagram
On October 5th, the Spring 2026 Valentino show took place at Paris Fashion Week. Named “Fireflies”, the show was inspired by a letter written to a friend by Pier Paolo Pasolini (Valentino’s former creative director) about a time in 1941 when, in the midst of World War II, he saw a field full of fireflies and imagined them as a metaphor for hope and resistance during times of conflict. Excerpts from this letter were read by Pamela Anderson at multiple points throughout the show, giving context to the collection’s message.
At a time marked by conformity and with the rise of AI redefining what it means to create, making and supporting art (and the art of high fashion) more important than ever.
Since entering into the role of creative director last year, Alessandro Michele has reimagined the brand through his own lens while staying true to the principles that have made Valentino so memorable for 66 years. Other than the rotating light fixtures, the concrete runway was barren and almost sterile. This, combined with the model’s natural hair and makeup looks, allowed the clothes and accessories to shine.
The collection included 80 looks, many of them very sleek and slim-fitting. The color palette included both muted tones and bright colors— especially the red that Valentino has become known for. Another motif that appeared in numerous looks was sequins and sparkling beads— very appropriate for a show centered around the idea of bringing light to the darkness.
My personal favorite aspect of this show was the gorgeous jewelry. For outfits that were more neutral, the gold and diamond earrings that draped down past the model’s shoulders were the main focus of the look.
Bold necklaces consisting of thick medal collars with gold detailing hanging down from them also reappeared many times throughout the show, especially in the men’s looks.
When the last few models were leaving the runway, Anderson’s voiceover returned to complete the commentary on Pasolini’s letter. The room went completely black for about a minute, and then the light fixtures flickered on in a way that resembled fireflies.
The models walked back onto the runway and stood in a uniform formation, taken by the sight of the ceiling.
Anderson wasn’t the only celebrity spotted at the event. The front row also included businesswoman and podcaster Emma Chamberlain and Lana del Rey alongside her husband, Louisiana native and former boat tour guide Jeremy Dufrene.
During times of conflict and tension, things like fashion can feel superficial and insignificant. Pasiolini’s letter is a reminder that it is not only acceptable but also important to continue pursuing passions even during the darkest times. They are what connect humanity, and they should not be taken for granted.
Works Cited
https://hero-magazine.com/shows/valentino-ss26-searching-for-light-through-cracks-in-the-darkness
https://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/valentino-spring-2026-runway-show-photos
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2026-ready-to-wear/valentino