Under the shimmering lights of the Eiffel Tower at the Trocadéro, Anthony Vaccarello presented his ready-to-wear SS27 collection. These pieces and this show mark ten years as the creative director of YSL for Vaccarello. The collection honors the legacy of the brand’s founder, Yves Saint Laurent, and is also rumored to be Vaccarello’s final show and collection for the brand. With unforgettable looks, metallic fabrics, striking silhouettes, and a gorgeous setting, it blends Yves Saint Laurent's legacy with Vaccarello’s modern twist.
The collection, Gone with Gold, features 59 looks, 49 of which are made from different fabrics and shades of gold. The luxurious color is closely tied to the brand’s history, making it the perfect homage to Saint Laurent, who famously dubbed the color “magical” and believed it was associated with the sun and its reflection on women. On the runway, this belief in the magic of gold was perfectly captured.
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Vaccarello’s hallmark structured silhouettes are defined in this collection by the strong shoulders, cinched waists, and intricate tailoring. The collection also included sheer scarves and flowy, delicate fabrics that contrasted rigidity with a sense of softness. The footwear mirrored the golden theme, featuring intricately sculpted snake-heels, jeweled sandals, chains, and classic pointed slingbacks.
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Slowly, the glistening golden fabric and eccentrically designed footwear transitioned to black. Dark, constructed velvet suits and flowy evening gowns closed the show, designs more closely tied to Vaccarello’s personal style. The drastic shift from gold to black fabrics gave the collection contrast and showed how collections from YSL and Vaccarello are not just about shimmering and striking designs, but also about construction, textiles, and silhouettes.
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The show closed with an enchanting surprise performance by French singer Charlotte Gainsbourg. Overall, Vaccarello’s possible final collection represented how brands can honor their legacy while still adding modern twists and personal influences.
Image: Vogue France